Sand Sea Resort Review

In the life of many a Peace Corps Volunteer, there comes that moment when parents come to visit, and they finally treat you to many of the luxuries you have not been able to afford on your living stipend in your country of service. Such it was for us at the Sand Sea Resort on Railay Beach West in Krabi, which we visited last August, courtesy of my mother.

Railay is only accessible by boat; for us, a longtail boat chartered by the resort. We were whisked away across the water, past brilliant green karst bluffs and into a light rainstorm. Adventure! Upon our arrival at Railay, we followed a cart full of our bags over a short path and into the Sand Sea gardens.

Bungalows line either side of a well-tended path meandering towards the pool, and a moment later, the beach. Although our bed was a bit hard, the sparkling clean shower and comfortable wooden porch chairs more than made up for it. Each morning we enjoyed a buffet breakfast overlooking the water.

For meals other than breakfast, however, I recommend eating elsewhere. Railay Bay Resort next door has better food and better service. Due to Muslim ownership, neither resort serves alcohol, but there are plenty of small beachside bars to fill the gap.

Days can be spent swimming, snorkeling (many guided trips are offered from shops around the resort, including the fantastic "sunset snorkel" ), rock climbing, wandering over to Phra Nang Beach, or just sitting by the pool. In the evenings, you might run into an impromptu game of beach volleyball at sunset, or perhaps walk the five minutes over to Railay Beach East for bar movies and a livelier crowd. There’s no rush to life at Railay – it’s all about enjoying the laid-back, mellow atmosphere. Pure vacation.

Sand Sea Resort has onsite laundry and a mini-mart, as well as relatively affordably internet access.

Da Stefano Review

If you’re in Chiang Mai and in need of a place to go for a romantic Italian dinner, Da Stefano is it. Located near the Tha Pae Gate, from the outside Da Stefano looks like just another one of those little foreign food establishments that you see all over the city. The quality of the food, however, sets it apart.

We went to Da Stefano almost by accident, after our plan to dine by the river was impossible due to rowdy crowds at the first restaurant we chose. Craving Italian, we quickly called a few places in the guidebook that we had along. Da Stefano answered the phone and promised pizza and other vegetarian options.

When we entered the restaurant, we were immediately relieved to find quiet, well-spaced tables half-filled with other couples and small groups looking for a quiet evening. We chose a table next to the wall and eagerly opened the menu. Four reasonably-priced set menu options were presented on the first page, but uninterested we continued. The lists of pizzas and appetizers were long and appealing. In addition, other Italian specialties, including pastas and gnocchi, were offered. After ordering, we settled back to enjoy the atmosphere.

The garlic bread bruschetta arrived first, along with a half-liter of the cheaper of the two house red wines. The wine was great, but although both the bread and topping were very tasty individually, I probably wouldn’t order it as an appetizer again. The complementary dry breadsticks that were placed on the table with some olive dipping oil were flavorful.

The mixed salads were quite large, including lettuce, tomatoes, onions, cucumbers, and shredded carrot, and we were able to put on our own oil and vinegar right at the table. The best part of the meal, however, was the pizza. We shared a margharita, which came topped with fresh basil leaves, and a four-cheese, which had a pleasing blend that included Gouda and just enough Gorgonzola to give it some kick. The crust was perfectly cooked and full of its own flavor, and all of it went perfectly with the wine. I’ve eaten pizza at many different restaurants in six Thai provinces, and Da Stefano beats them all.

For dessert, we skipped the Italian classics and shared a chocolate sundae, just the right end to our meal. As we walked out into the calm night we agreed that we’d choose Da Stefano on our next trip to Chiang Mai.
To get to Da Stefano, walk east across the moat from Tha Pae Gate. Right after Starbucks and Family Mart, turn left onto the little lane that heads north. Da Stefano is a few meters in on the right.

Indian Restaurant Vegetarian Food

We have learned to interpret the recommendations of the Lonely Planet guidebook series with some skepticism. Their descriptions of lodging and food, though never entirely off the mark, will often have some error or omission that we'll wish we had known about sooner. Their listing of "Indian Restaurant Vegetarian Food" in Chiang Mai, however, was right on.

We arrived in Chiang Mai after dark on Friday evening. Hungry for some cheap but moderately healthy food, we called over to the restaurant to make sure they were open. "Oh, yes, come on in," they said. "What time do you close?" we asked. "Oh, whatever time is good for you," the woman replied.

We walked the short distance from our guest house to the restaurant. Located on a busy but quiet lane with many shops catering to the backpacker tourist crowd, Indian Restaurant Vegetarian Food looks like a small cafeteria with about 6 or 7 tables. Bollywood music videos were playing on the television, and the white walls were decorated with an assortment of Thai and Indian posters. Only one table was already occupied when we arrived, but by the time we left an hour later they were all full. A stout gentlemen with grey-black hair brought us our menu. "Are you hungry?" he asked. "Yes, we're very hungry!" we replied. I ordered some samosas to start.

The all-vegetarian menu contained all the standard curries, with a few additional options. We decided to each order a "thali" -- a selection of curries with rice and flatbread. When the stout gentleman arrived with our samosas, he was ready to take our order. "So you'll be having a thali and a dosa?" he asked. "No," we said, "we each want a thali." "Ok, a thali and a dosa, big for you to share," he continued. We looked at each other. "No, we don't want dosa. Just two thalis," we tried again.

"Oh, two thalis!" he answered. "Ok. So you will have some lentils, some paneer, and some capsicum curries?"
"Well, can we choose our own curries?" we asked hesitantly.
"Choose, ok."
"I would like lentils, chickpeas..." Robert started.
"No chickpeas. How about capsicum?" said the gentleman.
"Err... how about these potatoes and peas?" tried Robert. "And some potatoes and tomatoes?"
"Ok, and one more," said the man. "You want capsicum?"
"How about potatoes and paneer?" Robert asked.
"Potatoes potatoes potatoes!" exclaimed the gentleman. "All you are eating is potatoes!"
"I like potatoes," Robert replied.

"Ok," the gentleman turned to me, "and you will have four different curries that I will choose for you?"
"Well, I would like dahl too," I started.
"Ok, dahl too," he replied, "and capsicum?"
Capsicum (bell pepper) curry didn't sound very appealing to me, no matter how much he was pushing it. "Can I have yellow pumpkin?" I asked.
"Ok, he said." "And capsicum?"
"And how about spinach and paneer?" I continued.
"Ok, and then capsicum?"
I gave up. "Ok, I'll try the capsicum." I said. We ordered two mango lassis and dove into our samosas as soon as he was gone. They were outstanding, though better on their own than with the accompanying sauce.

While waiting for the arrival of our thalis, we watched the woman in the kitchen, presumably the wife of the gentleman who took our order, juggle the various pots and pans on the stove. It seemed to be very much a family operation.

When the food came, we were not disappointed. The dahl was fantastic. Although there were a few changes from what we remembered ordering (we both ended up with capsicum), everything was delicious. The individual flavors in each curry stood out well, especially the yellow pumpkin. The flatbread was good, and the rice was an aromatic variety I haven't seen in Thailand. The mango lassies were refreshing and not too sweet.

At the end of the meal, our total bill -- including samosas, 4 scoops of curry apiece, rice, flatbread, water, and mango lassis -- came to just 290 baht, or about $7.50. We were impressed. Completely stuffed, we walked back to our guesthouse and vowed to return to the gentleman's Indian restaurant as often as possible. If he pushes the capsicum, we may take him up on it again.

To get to Indian Restaurant Vegetarian Food, enter Soi 9 off Moon Muang Road (along the moat). A short walk down the soi, the Local pub will be on your right. Turn left to walk away from it and you'll see the big white free-standing sign listing cheap Indian vegetarian foods.

Coral Resort Review

Coral Resort is located on Hat Kai Bae (Kai Bae Beach), Ko Chang. The resort is situated right on the water, with excellent views of islands and sea. Our bungalow door opened to a stunning view of shimmering water, and at night we sat on the comfortable patio chairs to look at the stars shining over the Gulf of Thailand.

Because Coral Resort is situated over a rocky tidal area, the resort does not have its own swimming beach, which is a drawback for those who want to walk from their doorway right into the water. The best beach is a 10-minute hike from the bungalows, past several other restaurants and lodgings. We didn’t find the walk to be unpleasant, however, and the relative quietness of the Coral Beach location more than made up for the distance. Joggers will appreciate the long stretch of sand available to the public!

Bungalows are very comfortable; even the cheapest have soft spring mattresses, screened windows, and daily cleaning. Air-con is not necessary thanks to the powerful ceiling fans. Some of our best nights of sleep in Thailand were here!

The resort is owned by a friendly French man, and the menu has both Thai and western offerings. The restaurant and bar offer spectacular views of the pool and Gulf. Most of the food and beverages were absurdly overpriced, however, especially considering the cheaper (and, in my opinion, better-quality) food available just a few steps away. The one standout section on the menu is the salads – a regular garden salad came with delicious chunks of feta cheese, a real treat for the price. For most meals, though, I recommend the close-by KB Bungalows, where we found friendly service as well as affordable and delicious fare.

We visited towards the end of April, the beginning of the low season. Hence, the place was wonderfully quiet both day and night. We did have rain for a good 50% of our visit, but we found this to be no obstacle to relaxation.

Coral Resort: Highly Recommended!!

Govinda Review

Govinda Italian Restaurant is located off Sukkhumvit Road Soi 22 in Bangkok. It is an all-vegetarian Italian restaurant that prides itself on "healthfulness". We visited this restaurant on a surprisingly quiet Saturday night.

After the sun has gone down, the outdoor tables are a pleasant place to sit surrounded by potted plants, and the wait staff will set up a fan or two for you. Inside, the first floor is nicely air-conditioned but the second floor is still a little too warm.

We tried just one item from the starter menu: the Bruschetta Pomodoro. Though both the tomatoes and the bread were pleasantly fresh, the dish was overall lacking in the bold flavors that I usually expect from a bruschetta.

Many of the salads are startlingly overpriced, as is the house wine. We splurged on a carafe of red anyway, and were very pleased to have done so. Robert enjoyed his "chicken" caesar (all of bruschetta's "meat" dishes are made with soy) even though the dressing was, in our opinion, not remotely resembling a true caesar dressing. My Rucola salad was much better, made with fresh arugula, pine nuts, and boldly flavoured shaved Parmesan.

The rest of the menu is more affordable. The list of pastas and main dishes was almost too long -- we took 20 minutes to make a selection! Sadly, the vegetarian lasagna is made with a white sauce instead of a red, so we skipped it. I opted instead for the whole wheat rigatoni, which satisfied all of my Minnesota-homestyle-Italian food desires -- thick with three cheeses, plenty of fresh tomato sauce, all baked in a substantial platter. Robert's ravioli was exquisitely garlicky; its one drawback was its small size -- not nearly enough to fill a grown man. Fortunately, my meal was more than ample enough to fill us both. We had to pass on the desserts, which was probably best for our budget anyway.

On the whole, Govinda is strongly recommended for vegetarians and meat-eaters alike! Take sky train Phrom Pong and walk a short ways past Emporium and the park.

Siam Beach Review

Here, for all those budget travelers in Thailand, is my review of our stay at Siam Beach on Ko Chang. Siam Beach Resort is located on Lonely Beach, the furthest south of the main beach areas on the island and the one most appealing to the backpacker crowd. There is a row of bungalow operations and hotels of varying caliber. Siam Beach Resort is fortunate to have the nicest stretch of sandy beach on this section of the island – the others have rocky beaches that are not as appealing to a swimming crowd.

The bungalows are beginning to fall apart, possibly due to the turn of attention toward the development of a more upscale hotel on the premises, but they are still a good deal for the price and location. (Those not as interested in a prime beach spot might want to check out Maggie’s Bungalows several hundred meters south of Siam Beach.) Bungalows on the hill have air conditioning, which is necessary after trekking up the steps to reach them. Three of us stayed in one of these, which I thought was a bit crowded. The resort was nice enough to give us an additional mosquito net, however. (Very necessary!)

The beach can’t be beat! Shallow, turquoise, calm waters with views of small islands. The water is incredibly warm and clear. You may be able to see the few fish swimming below you even without goggles. The beach has little shade, but if you grab one of the wooden recliner seats and pull it under the coconut trees you’ll find a little relief from the heat of the sun.

The food at the resort is generally delicious but overpriced. The same menu is found at Siam Huts, a 15 minute walk south along the beach, with lower prices. An even more extensive and affordable menu is at Nature Beach, between the two Siams. Nature Beach is also the place to go for cocktails, and it has the best of the stretch’s nightly barbeques (don’t miss the potatoes or the mackerel!).

The biggest drawback to Lonely Beach was the loud thumpin’ music that began each night around 11pm and continued until 4 or 5 am. Even in our perch high on the hill, AC running, we couldn’t get away from the sound and it made a good night’s sleep nearly impossible. The music seemed to be coming from one of the resorts further south, but it echoed over the water with acoustics I would have preferred in another situation.

Overall, I give Siam Beach a YES. Go there if you want a great beach and relaxed pace.