A Return to Civility?

I recognize that I live in a pretty nice part of America. Minnesota is a great state, and my neighborhood is just about the best. All the same, during my first 12 days home, I’ve been continually surprised by the politeness and civility of the people I encounter.

Since we haven’t yet purchased a car, we’ve spent a lot of time walking around on various errands and family visits. There have been exactly two times that, while walking, I have had someone shout something at me. The first was last week, when walking with a friend and her 2-year-old. A car of young-ish appearing males drove by and shouted something I’ve now forgotten. The second was a few evenings ago, when I was out walking for exercise. Another car of young-ish men drove by and shouted something that I think was, “Run faster!”

In my pre-Thailand days, both these experiences would probably have bothered me a lot. “Why are they shouting at me?” I’d have thought. “What did I ever do to them?”

Post-Thailand, however, all I could think of each time it happened was, “Wow, that’s the first time someone has shouted at me in America!” and “Wow, that’s only the second time someone has shouted at me in America!” Living in Thailand, I had just gotten used to being stared at, shouted at, and pointed at all the time. Sometimes it was benign or even friendly, and sometimes it was most definitely not. It was just something that all of us Peace Corps Volunteers learned to live with, eventually, though I can’t say I knew anyone who liked it.

The other thing that has amazed me nearly every day since our return home is the way that people stop for us when we are crossing the street. We have a pretty good crosswalk law here, and a few years ago there was a lot of publicity about how cars that didn’t stop for pedestrians risked getting ticketed for it. I guess it worked, because I keep stopping at corners and intersections, waiting for cars to go by, and they keep stopping for me. It’s a little unsettling, but in a good way. I don’t think I ever had a vehicle stop for me in Thailand. Most of the time, I was on high alert, trying to make sure I didn’t get bowled over by a flying motorcycle, noodle stand, or pickup truck. Even in our little town, traffic could be pretty scary.

People talk all the time about the rude manners of Americans, but I’m giving high marks this week for the USA being pedestrian-friendly!

By the way, don't forget to check out my blog about our Cambodia-Malaysia travels at Kate's Travel Blog!

What's Inside...

Way, way back, during our Peace Corps training, one of our Thai training directors commented on the sad state of Thai education. “I see schools spending huge sums of money to have a beautiful sign made,” he said. “But when you go inside the school, there’s no teaching going on. I think this is what needs to change in Thailand.” We were still idealistic at that point, and didn’t know how hard it was going to be to promote “student-centered learning” in Thailand. But the comment stuck with us, and two years later in Minnesota, I’m still thinking about it.

Much of Thai society operates this way. A gleaming structure is beautiful to look at but has nothing of substance inside. A student from a school wins numerous awards, bringing honor to the school, but none of the other kids in his class can read. A shiny new airport is built at the cost of billions of dollars, but the runway is on top of a swamp and starts to sink. A ceremony is held for a new library, but there’s no books inside that kids actually want to read. Where is the thought? Where is the deliberation? Where is the meaning? Where is the real benefit?

This photo shows me sitting with three neighborhood kids outside the local elementary school in our training village. From the sign, and perhaps even from the nice plants behind it, you’d think that this school is a well-run, attractive spot, probably with some good education happening inside. In reality, class sizes were in the 40s and kids had few materials. Teachers often didn’t show up for class. And this was one of the better-run public schools that we saw in Thailand.

It’s often said about Thailand that the people there value social harmony and evenness. They don’t like having debate, disagreement, or anything that isn’t “beautiful.” (“Beautiful” was one of the words we heard most often in Thailand, right after “delicious.”) While this has its benefits, it also has some drastic consequences, because circumstances or situations that should be challenged are not. Airports are built on swamps, and teachers go shopping instead of teaching.

I’m now reading The Lexus and the Olive Tree by Thomas Friedman, a book published in 2000 about globalization. My understanding of globalization is vastly different after two years in Thailand than it was before I went, and I’ll probably have several blogs on this topic. I chose to write about the school signs today, though, because of a particular quote in the book. While discussing the Southeast Asian economic crash of the late 1990s, he writes, “[The SE Asian countries] had replicated the outward configurations of the Western financial systems, but in many cases in was replication by rote. There was something missing inside.” In other words, while Thailand and other countries had appeared to transition to a free-market economy, in actuality there was no substance behind the change, and the transition failed. The fancy sign was on display, but no teaching was going on.

Home

We returned home on Sunday and have been spending several days recovering from jet lag and enjoying American food. Here is a short list of things we’re happy to be experiencing once again:

– spring weather, cool temperatures, and sweaters
– quiet traffic (hardly any motorcycles!)
– cereal and bagels for breakfast
– being able to state our opinions
– dry bathroom floors
– running paths
– family and friends!

I’ve started a new blog for descriptions and photos of our Cambodia-Malaysia trip. You can visit it at Kate's Travel Blog. I’ll continue to write more about Thailand at this site.

Sidficious and Friend Swim in the Straits of Melaka

Sidficious, the world traveler, appears again.

He enjoyed the water.

Good luck Ian and Calin!

And hello Liz!

Monkey Attack!

Ok, so it didn't actually succeed at attacking me, but it would have if the water hadn't been just a couple of feet away!

Today we rented a double-seated kayak for three hours, and eventually found ourselves on the most lovely little beach ever. We were the only people there. After some fish-watching, cookie-eating, and sunscreen-re-applying, we ducked back into the crystal clear water for a final swim before returning the kayak.

Suddenly, I saw a monkey come out of the trees and head straight for our stuff. When this happened on Tuesday at a more populated beach, I just walked out of the water toward the monkey and it ran away. Today, no such luck. I exited the water and walked towards it, assuming it would run. Instead, it bared its fangs and lunged towards me!

Shocked, I spun around and ran back into the sea. Apparently monkeys don't like getting wet, because it stopped shortly before reaching the water. It then returned to peruse our stuff.

After some quick consultation, we decided that it wasn't going to give up access to our things without a fight, so we came up with a weapon: rocks. From our position down at the water, we began throwing rocks at it. It bared its fangs a few more times, but didn't charge again and instead crept back into the trees. We then took turns standing guard while reassembling our belongings. The last we saw of the monkey, it was smuggling a coconut from the water's edge into the jungle.

Enjoying Malaysia

We've continued to have a fantastic time on our post-Peace Corps travels here in Malaysia. After leaving the Cameron Highlands, we visited the island of Penang in the northwest. Penang has an interesting history of British colonialism combined with Chinese settlement (as do other parts of Malaysia), which we enjoyed learning about at a couple of museums and by walking through town. We tried some local cuisine, including "laksa" -- a spicy, sour fish curry, as well as a rather bizzare potato/tofu mix covered in red sauce and eaten cold. I'll describe more when I can post pictures!

Now we're settled at the beach for a couple of days. It's a little rainy at times, but still very beautiful and relaxing.

Here are a few things we like about Malaysia as compared to Thailand:

1. People here drive more slowly and less crazily.
2. This is a truly multicultural society, with Chinese, Indians, and Malays all interacting and socializing.
3. There are multiple cuisines to choose from.
4. It is green and clean, compared to the dusty dry place we left in March!
5. Things seem to work pretty well here on the whole.
6. There is usually soap in the public bathrooms.

It's a great place to be!

Beautiful

We're now in what must be one of the most beautiful places on earth -- the Cameron Highlands of Malaysia. Sadly, our internet cafe doesn't have USB ports so I can't put up any photos yet. That will have to wait until we return home.

In the meantime, however, we're having a wonderful couple of days hiking, looking at roses, drinking tea and eating scones. The weather is remarkably cool, so we wear sweatshirts and socks and shoes. Vacation is good.

Kuala Lumpur

We've landed in another world. Yesterday we arrived in Malaysia, and the differences between here and Thailand (and Cambodia) are almost overwhelming! It's Southeast Asia, but then again, it's not the Southeast Asia we've become familiar with over the past two years. I have to say that we are enjoying it very much!

Today we toured some of Kuala Lumpur, the capital city. It's an amazingly clean and green city -- filled with parks, well-maintained streets, and beautiful buildings. Perhaps we just haven't seen the more run-down parts, but it has really been lovely to us.

We started with the Petronas Towers, of course, because how could you visit Malaysia and not stop by the world's tallest buildings? They didn't really look all that tall to me, but it was fun for taking photos anyway.

From the towers, we rode subways and monorails to the starting point of the Lonely Planet's "colonial district" walking tour. British and Islamic architecture combine to make some fantastic buildngs. We also visited the National Mosque, where we learned a lot about Islam in Malaysia. It was really interesting. As you can see, my clothing was not entirely suitable, so I had to cover up a little more. (I had been wearing capri pants and a t-shirt.)

At intervals, we've also enjoyed several delicious Indian meals. The Indian population in Malaysia is about 8% of the total, and I think that's even higher in KL, so finding cheap Indian food is very easy. I can't get enough!

Tomorrow, we'll start exploring more of the peninsula. Stay tuned!

Cambodia: Place of Contrasts

We've been in Cambodia 5 days now. I'll be writing fuller descriptions with photos of our travels after we return home, but I wanted to at least say a few things while we're still on the road.

To sum up Cambodia, I have to say that it is a place of contrasts. Wealth and spendor (a bit) contrast with grueling poverty. Delicious food contrasts with trash on the roads. The kindness of the people we meet today constrasts with the brutal history they experienced in their immediate past. The vast number of tourists from all different countries here in Siem Riep (site of Angkor Wat) contrasts with our bus rides through the countryside to get here, during which we saw almost no foreign faces. The amazing beauty of Angkor Wat contrasts with the 100+ degree heat that you must move through to explore it.

We have really enjoyed our time here so far, in part because the examination of these contrasts is so fascinating. We have spent most of our time on the beaten path, but did have the opportunity to spend a few hours one evening with a friend from Peace Corps Thailand who has been living and working here for a year. She gave us more of the story behind the scenes that most tourists in Cambodia see. Hearing her real stories of life here, and contrasting those with our tourist experience, reminded me of what it was like to live full-time in Thailand and contrast our experience there with what was usually written in guidebooks and seen by visitors. There's a world of difference between visiting a place and living in it. I'm glad that we've gotten the chance to do both here in Southeast Asia.

Now, we're off to some more good Cambodian food and Angkor Beer!