Spitting Llamas?

"How about a giraffe? What sound does a giraffe make?"
"I don’t think a giraffe makes a sound."
"A penguin? That can’t make a very fun sound. How about a beaver?"
"A beaver probably makes a sound like this: (gnaw and cluck with front teeth sticking out)."
"Yeah! That’s good for a beaver. They’ll like that. What else?"
"Does a llama make a sound?"
"That llama on Sesame Street used to make a squealing sound, but it wasn’t very pleasant."
"How about if it sort of snorts and spits? A llama might do that. But then the kids might all start spitting instead of singing..."
"Maybe if we do the llama last, then the song will be almost over anyway, so they won’t have a lot of time to spit."
(Pause)
"Can you believe this is our dinner table conversation?"
"Yeah, why did I bother learning the Library of Congress catalog system, writing a thesis on Quebec’s Quiet Revolution, and studying Foucault’s theories of post-modernism in history?"

If you had been a gecko on the wall around 6:30pm in our pink house, as I was clearing the dishes and Robert was finishing off his pad si iew (stir-fried noodles with soy sauce), you would have heard an extended version of the above conversation. It took place at the end of the first of two days of the English camp we are running for 6th graders at 5 schools in our town. There are 129 students, divided into 8 groups, with each group represented by an animal that lives primarily outside southeast Asia.*

The camp is actually a science and English camp, with 8 different stations. Our four English stations include Animals Around the World, Landforms, Weather, and Conservation. To liven up the Weather station a little, we selected vocabulary words like "typhoon" and "blizzard" instead of "rain" and "snow".

Overall, the first day went well. The teachers enjoyed their stations, and the kids said they were having fun. We’re trying to liven a few activities up for tomorrow, though, and the snippet of conversation above is part of our attempt to map out "Old MacDonald Had a Zoo" for the morning’s opening song.

One highlight of my day, unrelated to spitting llamas, was discovering a bizarre Thai dessert that I actually liked. Usually I don’t like traditional Thai desserts, because they either a) are gelatinous in texture and come in colors like fluorescent pink and green, or b) have a meat filling, like pork or shrimp. There is a particular dessert, though, that is only partially gelatinous and comes in a nice shade of light brown that I don’t mind too much. Today I picked up a piece during the morning coffee break, but when I opened it I discovered that it had a new ingredient that made me nervous.

"Ajaan Wirinton," I said to the teacher working at the Conservation Station with me, "does this have any meat in it?" "No," she replied in a reassuring voice, "you can eat that!" Ajaan Dara came over and verified. "Thai desserts are usually just sugar and coconut milk, no meat!" they agreed. "That one just has some onions! It’s still vegetarian!"

"Right..." I thought, "just some onions. Exactly what I expect to find in my dessert!" But I took a bite, and what do you know, it was really good. So there you have it: sugar, coconut milk, and crispy fried onions: a surprisingly tasty treat.

*The animals, in addition to giraffes, penguins, beavers, and llamas, include kangaroos, woodpeckers, hippos, and camels.
And yes, Robert really did make the commend about Foucault’s theories, etc.

Neighbors

Growing up in the Merriam Park and Macalester-Groveland neighborhoods of St. Paul, I was used to wide streets, front and back lawns, grassy boulevards, and plenty of space between houses. It was rare to hear neighbors talking inside their house, listening to their music, or cooking their food.

Life in our small town has been a good crash course in high-density housing – at least the kind you might encounter in a hot climate where most doors and windows are open most of the time. Few secrets could be held in our town, because you can hear much of what is happening in the neighbors’ homes. We know when they are making dinner, watching TV, taking a bath, yelling, or playing. Fortunately for us, I think, the language barrier works in our favor – I don’t have to worry about people understanding the conversations I have with Robert, and I can tune out much of what is happening outside in a way that I might not be able to if it was in English.

Despite the noise and relative lack of privacy, however, I have grown used to living in such a close space. It’s nice to know that if you had a problem, it would be easy to find someone to help out. Many of the sounds have grown comforting in their own way: garlic sizzling in the wok, wooden window shutters closing, chairs being dragged back under the awning for the night. As I type I can hear water running as the dishes are washed next door.

In the photo, our house is the pink one, the blue is next door, and the brown is behind.

Neighborhood Clean-Up

Twenty minutes before I left the house this morning, my co-teacher Warangkana called to tell me that today was neighborhood cleanup day in one of the villages that feeds our school. Good thing we didn’t have important lesson plans! I rode my bicycle over and met up with the students – grades 3 and 6 – across the river, where they were filling bags of trash.

A major goal of the neighborhood cleanup, which takes place in all villages in our area at the start of every rainy season, is to prevent an outbreak of dengue fever. Dengue is spread by daytime-biting mosquitoes who like to lay eggs in standing water. The students, together with the teachers and a group of local health volunteers, distribute little packets of "mosquito sand" * to the people in the village and help put the mosquito sand in the various buckets of water that stand around the houses. I think they also try to discourage people from keeping buckets of standing water in the first place.

I was excited to get to be part of this activity for several reasons. One, I always like to go deeper into the neighborhoods where my students live and see what things are like. I got to see several of their houses today as well, which I’ll describe more in a later blog. Two, I think it’s pretty cool that the school teams up with the hospital to do community outreach in the village. That’s a great example of working together. And three, I really don’t want to get dengue fever. It’s not one of "those" diseases "over there" – you can really get it here! Three volunteers have gotten it since we arrived in Thailand, and all of them described it afterwards as pretty awful. So despite the fact that I was sweltering in the heat and had sweat dripping down my back all morning, I was having a good time.

* "Mosquito sand" is not an official term. It’s what the 6th grade came up with in English class to describe what they had been doing. I assume the substance is some sort of pesticide. My co-teacher said that it would make us sick if we ate it, but it doesn’t kill mosquitoes – it just stops them from laying eggs in the water. The only words in English on the back of the packet are a brand name "ABATE," and the ingredients tetramethyl and thiodiphenylene bis (phosphorothioate). Not being much of a scientist, I can’t explain those, but maybe someone else can? The close-up photo of the boys shows one of them, Giangsak, holding up a packet.

Nam Prik Het

Most of the time, I don’t make Thai food when we’re in our house. I know I should be practicing for when we return to the USA and I want to make it myself, but it’s just not as delicious when made by me as it is when made by people in our town! But last week the teachers at my school helped me learn to make one of my favorite dishes, and since then I’ve made it at home three times.

"Nam Prik" translates literally as "chili water," and there are dozens of varieties of it in northern Thailand. Nam Prik Num is a basic chili dip made primarily with green chilies and garlic, and sometimes fish sauce or fermented fish sauce. Nam Prik Ong, Robert’s favorite, has the addition of tomatoes and pork. But my favorite is Nam Prik Het, made with forest mushrooms that spring up from the ground when the rains are heavy.

The ingredients in Nam Prik Het include: the forest mushrooms mentioned above (I don’t know the name of the variety in English, but I’m sure that other large soft mushrooms could be substituted); fresh green chilies; a bunch of garlic cloves; some small round green things that grow on a stem (I have no idea what they’re called, either, sorry!); and a little soy sauce.

First, you roast the chilies until they are soft and a bit blackened. I do this in the wok. Next, you grill or roast the mushrooms until most, but not all, of their water is gone. Then, take the chilies, garlic, and little green things and smash them up in a mortar (if you’re traditional) or a blender attachment (if you’re me). Add in those warm mushrooms and some soy sauce, keep smashing a bit more, and you have a tasty dip. We like to eat it with sliced cucumbers, green beans, boiled eggplant (not pictured), and sticky rice.

"Seven"

When one applies to and is accepted to the Peace Corps, one often has an image of the "developing" country as being almost entirely without modern conveniences and services. Certainly, many Peace Corps countries are this way, such as Mali in West Africa where my sister spent two years living in a mud hut with no running water, electricity, or telephone service.

Most of Thailand does not fit that description, however, as I realized the first time I stepped into a 7-11 way back during our training in early 2005. Not only was it air-conditioned, it had ice cream, candy bars, yogurt, wheat bread, Corn Flakes cereal, and Lays potato chips!

In Bangkok and other large Thai cities, there might be a 7-11 – called "Seven" by the Thais – nearly every other block. It is quite an institution. We’ll often duck in on our way to or from the Peace Corps office to grab some bottled water, a cell phone card, or some deodarant. Our town does not have one, however, which is probably a good thing. We have to travel 50 kilometers on windy mountain roads before seeing the bright red and green. I’m happier to support our local shops anyway, even if they don’t have M & M’s. A Peace Corps Volunteer does not need to have everything!

Khantoke

Last night we were invited to attend a Khantoke dinner at Jae Hom Wittaya, the local high school. A khantoke is a small round table filled with many dishes, usually including a vegetable stir-fry, a Burmese-style curry, a northern minced meat spicy salad, fried pig skins, spicy sausage, and various other assorted items. Because it is a traditional northern Thai-style dinner, all food is eaten with sticky rice.

This dinner was given in honor of a group of foreign exchange students who arrived in Thailand 2 months ago and are living in various provinces all around the country. They came to our province to attend a camp at a national park. We got to chat with a few of them, including one from Minnesota!

The entertainment at the khantoke was performed by Thai students at the high school. They did a number of traditional dances including classical style, swordfighting, fire-throwing, and drumming. It was very pleasant to sit on ground and watch while snacking on peanuts roasted with ginger and kaffir lime leaves. Mmm.

The Rambutan

Thailand has many interesting fruits. During my last 10 months here, I will try to highlight some of them as they come into season.

Shown in this picture is the lovely rambutan. Robert once described it as a red fruit with green hair! I usually use the prongs of my fork to slice it open around the middle (though most people use their thumbnails), until out pops a white, football-shaped sweet fruit with a big seed in the middle. It can be a bit difficult to eat sometimes – I’ve had more than one fly out of my fingers and onto the floor – but it’s quite tasty, and rather festive, too.

(The other fruits are oranges, which are green in Thailand, and some other sweet-sour thing that grows in the forest that I didn’t like very much.)

Sick!

One of my friends wrote me a letter several months ago asking what I miss from home when I'm sick over here in Thailand. This week I can answer that question very easily!

Last week, Robert and I spent three days helping at our school district's English camp for gifted high school students, which took place at a nearby national park. As English camps go, it was a pretty good one, but as usual we didn't get enough sleep and came down with illnesses immediately following.

The first thing I miss is COOL AIR. When you are sick -- headache, fever, sore throat -- there are few things more unpleasant than lying in bed sweating even while the fan is blowing on you. It keeps you from getting that sleep you need to recover! It also keeps you from wanting to drink the hot tea that might be so helpful for your throat.

The second thing I miss is HEALTHY CONVENIENCE FOOD. At home, when sick, I could easily open a can of soup and heat it up on the stove. Here, I can choose between more intensive cooking (the healthier choice) and local take-out (the faster choice). But again, when you're hit by fever, neither of those choices is particularly appealing.

The third thing I miss is TV, or movies anyway. Yes, we can watch movies on our DVD -- and we did, a bit, on Saturday and Monday -- but setting up the computer and speakers and all the cords is more labor intensive than just walking into the living room and pushing a few buttons like I might have at home. We don't have a real TV here -- and we don't want one -- but once in a while it might be a nice break.

The last thing I miss is PERSONAL SPACE. Back in training, our Peace Corps doctor said to us, "Thai people are very into being sick." This is true. As soon as our neighbors-co-teachers-supervisors-anyone else knows that we're sick, they'll start pelting us with questions: Have you been to the doctor? Did you take medicine? Are you drinking warm water? If the answer to any of those is "no," it will produce an additional flood of questions: Why haven't you been to the doctor? Should I call the hospital for you? Do you need a shot? Why haven't you taken _XXX_ medicine yet?

The questions are all very well and good, and they show a genuine interest on the part of our Thai neighbors in their desire to attend to our health, but sometimes I want to say that what I really need is a night in a quiet, rooster- and karaoke-free, cold building with no one to ask me any questions!

60 Years of the King

This year Thailand is celebrating the 60th aniversary of the King. King Bhumibhol ascended the throne in 1946 and is the longest reigning monarch in the world. In fact, a Peace Corps Volunteer did some research last week and determined that the only monarch who ever reigned longer was Ramses II of Egypt (66 years). So it’s an impressive statistic here in Thailand.

More amazing than the length of his reign, though, is his record of development projects in the country. Not one to sit on a throne and give commands, this King has spent decades traveling to distant rural villages, promoting education and public health, and sponsoring all sorts of programs designed to help the Thai’s – and hill tribes living in Thailand – to help themselves. The people love him, and with good reason.

Friday was declared a national holiday so that everyone would have an opportunity to join in the celebration. (In typical Thai fashion, the declaration was made on Tuesday night, so those of us off at English camp didn’t get to enjoy our holiday until it was nearly over.) We made it back from camp mid-afternoon, so we had time for a quick shower before re-donning our yellow shirts and orange "Long Live the King" bracelets. (Yellow is the King’s color. Thailand has been experiencing a yellow shirt shortage in recent weeks.)

Our town’s parade started at the basketball court near our house and moved up the main road to the town government building. There, we were able to look at some displays showing the King’s life and accomplishments, purchase local products and snacks, and participate in the candle ceremony after sundown. We were both moved during the singing of the King’s anthem. It’s a beautiful song, and being able to honor him in that way with a crowd of adoring Thai’s was a singularly unique experience.

Grace

In many ways, four years of teaching in a Catholic school prepared me well for teaching in Thailand’s public schools. The schools, being Buddhist, incorporate religion throughout the day (at least nominally). Morning prayers are said after the national anthem, a picture of the Buddha hangs in the classroom, and all school ceremonies include giving offerings to the Buddha statue.

An educational movement called "Buddhist Way School" is moving through Thailand now. The idea behind it is that if the daily life in a school is centered and designed around a Buddhist philosophy – one that teaches the students moderation and mental discipline – students will have better behavior and academics will improve. In theory, and if implemented well, it seems like a good idea. The schools in our town are just beginning to follow the "Buddhist Way" plans.

One of the features of the Buddhist Way school is an extended communal prayer before the lunchtime meal. At both of my schools, the students enter the cafeteria, sit down with their trays of food, and then wait to be given a signal. At the signal, they all lift their hands into the "wai" position and say the grace. At one school, it is led line-by-line by the head of the student body, with all other students repeating. At the other, they all speak the entire grace together.

In the photo you might notice: tablecloths on the tables, portraits of the King, Queen, and a monk hanging over the doorways, the teachers’ lunch table through the doorway on the left, all boys have the same haircut and all girls have the same haircut.

Toothbrushing

Back in April I posted a blog about the cavities I’ve developed here in Thailand. At our mid-service conference in April, where all of us January 2005 arrivals had our doctor and dentist check-ups, it turned out that I was not the only one to experience this disturbing phenomenon. (One volunteer had SIX cavities, which certainly beat my four. Robert, amazingly, had none.) The general theories for why this is include the higher sugar levels in the Thai diet and the lack of flouride in our drinking water.

In any case, it seems as though dental health is something that the Thai school system takes somewhat seriously these days. All across Thailand, after lunch is finished, kids troop down to the toothbrushing stations (or canals, or water troughs, or whatever feature is available at their schools) and brush. At many schools – including the four at which Robert and I teach – this is all coordinated by a selection of songs designed just for this purpose: the "call to the toothbrush" song, the "how to brush your teeth" song, and the "now it’s time to return to class" song. The "how-to" song includes such great lines as "now, the upper-left! now, the lower-right!"

While I give high marks to the toothbrushing program, it’s clear to me that there are other steps that could be taken to ensure the students’ dental health. For one, the schools do not need to have canteens selling sweet treats during the lunch hour. Similarly, the local ice cream man does not need to be given permission to sell ice cream to the kids on the playground even before the end of the school day. It’s said that American kids eat way too much junk food – and that’s certainly true – but I will say that after plenty of experience watching kids eat junk in both countries, Thai kids are definitely come out ahead in the sugar race.

Yesterday, the dentist came to one of my schools and my co-teacher and I watched him check all the 6th graders mouths in the hallway outside the classroom. Only 4 out of 18 had cavities this time, so I guess that’s not too bad. When he returns I may get to watch him fill them in the meeting hall, like I did last year!

Wan Wai Kroo

Today was the hottest day we’ve had so far this year. It was also Wan Wai Kroo – the day of honoring teachers. So we all got to be really, really hot in our nicest clothes.

At my school, the ceremonies began shortly after 9am and included several parts. First, the teachers, principal, custodian, and two student body leaders gave offerings to the school spirit house. Next, the same group along with the student council paid respects to the school Buddha statue, King Rama V statue, and King Rama VI statue. We then joined the rest of the students in the meeting hall. They did some chanting, and then two representatives from each class brought a flower arrangement to the teachers.

Following those "honor" ceremonies, the principal gave a speech about being good students and good community members. Then all the students receiving scholarship money from the community fund to help pay for books and supplies lined up to get their envelopes. After some picture taking, the event was concluded and we returned to swelter in the classroms for the remainder of the day!

Things to notice in the photos: the current year in Thailand, the teachers’ fantastic silk suits (except for mine, which is cotton), the microphone, the lack of shoes at certain spots, the incense sticks, the pig’s head and beer.